Down the Hatch: Fernet me

MixCo - 3rd and Denver

Fernet Branca was the one bottle Jared Jordan and his service industry coworkers thought they could drink on the sly because no one would ever miss it.

“It’s kind-of the bartender’s handshake,” Jordan said. “If you order it, the bartender thinks ‘OK, you’re industry.’ It’s a fun secret, but I wish more people drank it, too.”

Jordan, who co-owns MixCo at 3rd St. and Denver Ave., makes sure his bar does its part to spread the good word of Fernet Branca—by carrying it on tap.

“San Francisco consumes 25 percent of the Fernet in the U.S.,” he said. “It’s on tap all over the place.” 

Maybe MixCo consumes 25 percent of the Fernet in Tulsa. Who knows. 

What I do know is that Fernet—a bitter Italian liqueur made with 27 different herbs, like saffron, cardamom, myrrh, and God knows what else—is not always a big hit on the first try. It’s syrupy, brown, and medicinal. Not exactly sweet. 

When I first tried it in Eastern Europe, where it also enjoys popularity, I got used to the taste by mixing it with tonic. Now, Fernet on ice or even as a room-temp shot is a go-to for an after-dinner drink, nightcap, or hangover cure. 

Jordan surmises bartenders like it so much because, after a night of making and taste-testing drinks—many of which are sweet—Fernet is a strong (39 percent ABV) choice that hits the palate, wakes you up, and gets you through close-down.

I too have joined the cult of Fernet, for no other reason than I like it. Now I just need to get a challenge coin. Yes, Fernet’s clique-ishness is such that it has special coins—like the military. 

“Oklahoma is getting its own coin,” Jordan said. “We held the contest here at MixCo a few weeks ago. Whenever someone pulls out their coin, whoever in the group doesn’t have theirs has to buy shots.”

For true Fernet geeks like Jordan and others in the industry, it’s a fun incentive for being part of the club. He and several other Tulsa bartenders also take shots of Angostura Bitters—which has no coin—but that’s another column for a different time.

“We eat so much this time of year that Fernet is my go-to,” Jordan said. 

I took a bottle of Fernet Branca home to Oklahoma City for a post-Thanksgiving meal digestif. Half of those who tried it seemed to like it, but they sipped tentatively. Fat and happy, I left to take a nap before anyone else finished the drink. 

If you’re new to the stuff, try it first in a cocktail—I suggest the Hanky Panky, a classic cocktail made with gin, sweet vermouth, and dashes of Fernet Branca; a Fernandito (Fernet and Coke), or even Fernet and Tonic. Another favorite is the Eva Peron, which is equal parts Fernet, ginger liqueur, sweet vermouth, lime juice, and ginger beer. Or dive right in and order a shot—the bartender will welcome you.

In “Down the Hatch,” assistant editor Liz Blood offers a look inside Tulsa’s many bars, pubs, saloons and gin joints. Send suggestions for future columns to liz@langdonpublishing.com or @lizblood on Twitter. For another sip, read Liz's article on Manhattans two ways at the Palace Café.