Changing foodscape

Looking back at the year’s culinary happenings

Restaurants have been upping culinary antes all year in Tulsa, taking gambles on new concepts, new cuisines and new locations. It is always eye-opening to see how much the cuisine landscape changes each year and 2016 saw some of the boldest ventures yet, from raw bars to ramen shops. Here’s a look at Tulsa’s foodie innovations from the past twelve months.

Top ramen 

Though pho is having its moment here in Tulsa, another broth-based competitor is canoodling its way into our hearts. Ramen has come a long way since college dorm days, becoming a sensation in big cities across the country. In addition to sushi, Yokozuna has been serving quality ramen dishes for years, but now downtown has Roppongi, a dedicated ramen shop opened by Libby Billings, owner of Elote Café and The Vault. She launched her take on the traditional Japanese soup after doing some reconnaissance in Tokyo. The colorful shop is located in the Deco District at 6^th and Boston (the old Lassalle’s New Orleans Deli location). Nipping at Roppongi’s heels is a corporate mainstay, JINYA Ramen Bar. JINYA is located in hundreds of locations all over the world and now calls a small spot in the Blue Dome District home.

Cold is hot 

Just when Tulsans have finally embraced sushi, local chefs and restaurateurs are taking raw to the next level. First, Torero made waves with its bold take on South American cuisine, focusing especially on ceviches—fish and seafood that are “cooked” using the acidity of citrus juices. For the ceviche skeptics out there, try Torero’s scallop crudo with cold poblano broth. It’s life changing. Virgola, an oyster bar, is banking on bivalves with its cold kitchen concept. Virgola’s Brookside location is the third location to open in this franchise that originated in New York City. Virgola imports oysters from the east and west coast. No gulf oysters here. Meats and cheeses are imported directly from Italy, along with Virgola’s own brand of prosecco and rose. Both new restaurants get the freshest fish and seafood despite being in a landlocked state.

Keep on truckin’

Eat Street Tulsa is Tulsa’s largest food truck festival and 2016’s event showcased almost a dozen brand spankin’ new food truck concepts. Luckily, food fans won’t have to wait until next year’s festival to find their favorite trucks and discover new ones. Fuel 66 is a food truck park and biergarten that just opened on 11^th Street near Lewis. A who’s who of investors, led by MASA owners Robert Carnoske and Chad Wilcox, are behind the new spot, which features an indoor bar, a heated patio that can be enclosed, giant Jenga and chess sets, and a ping pong table that is definitely not used for beer pong. The year-round park will have a rotating roster of food trucks, along with concerts and special events.

Big year for beer

We could’ve guessed that Tulsa would vote to loosen up liquor laws on November’s ballot by simply observing the uptick in brewpubs bubbling up all over town. Prairie Brewpub, anchored by Prairie Ales, opened in the Brady District. Meanwhile, Chase Healey sold Prairie to CHOC and opened American Solera, a tap room and beer society. Elgin Park, the pizza-plus-brewery concept from McNellie’s Group, staked territory by the ballpark. Roosevelt’s, a sister restaurant to R-Bar, built a swanky spot on Cherry Street that houses more flat-screen televisions than a Best Buy. Tulsa also scored its own Bricktown Brewery, which has taken over the location that used to house Leon’s on Brookside, which closed in April. Liquor may be quicker, but beer is playing it slow and steady in Tulsa. 

Ch-ch-ch-changes

Lassalle’s New Orleans Deli moved into a larger, mo’ betta location in Bartlett Square. Chris and Amanda West not only expanded their square footage by taking over the old Quizno’s at 423 S. Boulder, but also expanded their menu (fried green tomato po’ boy, hello!), hours (open for dinner on Friday!) and drink selections (beer!). 

Nico Albert built a stellar reputation as chef at Lucky’s Restaurant on Cherry Street. Then, she decided to trade food for booze, making a move to MixCo in downtown Tulsa and leaving that chef life behind…or so we thought. After a couple of years behind the bar, she returned to the kitchen this year and rolled out a fantastic menu for MixCo. Carefully curated cheese plates (pro tip: get the pimento cheese), seductive sandwiches like the Basque-style French Dip, and delicate salads like the tuna nicoise all pair beautifully with MixCo’s craft cocktails and wines. 

Ahead of opening its full-service location in the Brady Arts District next year, Lone Wolf upgraded its current fast-casual brick-and-mortar operation in September, moving to 11^th and Gary where the short-lived Rising Sun restaurant (along with a host of other dearly-departed concepts) once resided. They spruced up the space and expanded their menu, adding new appetizers, salads and sandwiches. They also carry a sublime selection of local beers which are available for carry-out (if unopened). 

It’s hard to believe the Asian bistro Te Kei’s opened on Utica Avenue 14 years ago. Earlier this year it got an update, both in appearance and taste, and reemerged as ROKA Bar & Asian Flavors. Not a total makeover, ROKA still has the same great romantic ambiance and décor. The menu gained a few new treats, like the coconutty tom kha soup, but also kept some Te Kei favorites. ROKA boasts a great happy hour—like four potstickers with soy cream sauce for only $3 and a $5 burger on Mondays, featuring house-ground beef and distinctly Asian accoutrements. 

Brewing news 

Hoot Owl Coffee took Tulsa by storm in the spring of 2015 with its superior collection of beans from around the world and its killer nitro brew. But after less than a year open, the café shut its doors this past January. Much like Superman ducking into a phone booth for a quick change, Hoot Owl re-emerged as Fair Fellow Coffee in March. The same java fanatics are paying attention to all the details in the gorgeous space, sourcing the best beans from sustainable sources. And, yes, their nitro will still blow your mind.

Cirque Coffee opened its doors in the Pearl District in August, offering a single origin espresso bar, and coffee in both pour-over and daily large-batch forms. The sparse interior features handmade furniture, bike racks, steampunkish lighting and coffee gear, and a few succulents, ensuring your focus is kept on what matters: the coffee. 

Doe’s becomes D’Vina

When Doe’s Eat Place closed its doors in December 2015, Davina Howie was watching. Less than a year later, after an extensive remodel, Howie’s restaurant concept, D’Vina, opened its doors. The interior isn’t the only departure from the previous steak and potato joint. Exotic spices from around the world provide inspiration for the international menu. Howie, along with executive chef Kurt Fichtenburg, have created a menu that touches almost every continent. Lamb tagine and tikka masala share menu space with gouda lamb burgers and spicy pork arepas. D’Vina is open for lunch and dinner every day and serve brunch on the weekends. (Oh, and, free parking at Marquette School while you dine with D’Vina.) 

Fond farewells

We wish the hardworking folks behind these dearly departed restaurants the best. 

Heirloom Bakery (December 2016) 
Sonoma Wine Bar (December 2016)
Ming’s Noodle Bar (October 2016)
Hopbunz (September 2016)
S&J’s Oyster Bar (June 2016)
Leon’s (April 2016)
The Right Wing (December 2015)

To greener pastures

Michelle Donaldson, who has been the executive chef at Tallgrass Prairie Table since it opened in late 2013, has handed the reigns for Tallgrass and its sister restaurant The Bramble to former sous chef Stephen Lindstrom. Over the years, Donaldson has distinguished herself as one of Tulsa’s creative culinary voices. We get to keep her for a little longer, but she has her sights set on moving back to her hometown of Detroit.

For more from Angela, read her article on Rio Restaurant & Bar, in the former location of Casa Bonita.