Delicious details

Boston Deli Grill & Market celebrates 25 years

Ken Schafer, owner of Boston Deli Grill & Market, was contemplating getting a Master’s degree when a sandwich derailed his plans. 

Nearly 25 years ago, he was having lunch and studying for class in a humble, 620 square-foot deli at 4th and Boston Ave. when inspiration struck. 

“[The owner] had her baby in a crib in there,” said Schafer. “While I was doing homework, I noticed maybe five or six people came in. Yet, there’d be hundreds of people walking around the 4th and 5th Streets outside. So, I asked if she’d be interested in selling it.”

She was. Within 15 days, Schafer tweaked the menu, reopened the deli, and employed some unconventional methods for getting the attention of passersby. 

“We would put our Hasty-Bakes outside on the sidewalk,” Schafer said. “We weren’t supposed to be cooking on them and got in trouble a bunch of times, but we fought that battle.”

Schafer’s little deli on Boston went from pulling in $65 a day to $1000 in just a few months. Its popularity caught on and many tried to convince him to move into what is now the Brady District. The downtown of 1993 was very different from the downtown of today, so he opted for a space at 61st and Sheridan. Since then, he’s built a devoted following by relying on quality ingredients and creativity to fuel his menu.

“People use the term ‘farm to fork’ now and it’s very popular. But we’ve been doing it since day one,” said Schafer of his method for sourcing farm-fresh ingredients. Schafer also recognized the important role presentation plays in the dining experience. 

“Fifteen years ago they weren’t putting microgreens on food. You would get that presentation at fine dining restaurants, but it hadn’t moved into the casual scene. So we wanted to make casual dining food look beautiful on a plate as well as taste delicious.”

The focus on acquiring and using only the finest ingredients is comprehensive. The bacon is smoked, sliced, and cured in house. Whole organic turkeys are brought in raw, brined for three days, then smoked. The aiolis and sauces are made from scratch and the mustard is imported from France. A pastry chef makes beautiful breads, cakes and pies each day. But the cedar smoked salmon cakes best demonstrate Boston Deli’s holistic process and attention to detail.

Whole organic salmon is flown in fresh daily, stripped, placed on soaked cedar boards, and sent to the smoker. The process gives the panko-breaded cakes a wonderful depth and texture. An avocado “fan” containing a mango, orange and almond salsa sits atop the three flash-fried cakes, while a splash of roasted red bell pepper puree serves as a colorful base and a wonderful foil to the subtly sweet salsa. At each step of the dish, Schafer levels up with nuance. 

The ginger and chili spiced tenderloin demonstrates not only this mastery of creative combinations, it also shows off the Boston Deli’s Hasty-Bake skills. The tenderloin itself is marinated in an intense, house-made chili ginger marinade. In-house smoked tomatoes give the accompanying grits another layer of complementary flavor. 

The Mahi in the fish tacos is grilled on the Hasty-Bake and topped with a unique take on salsa verde—roasted Fuji apples lighten the tartness of the tomatillos, while jalapenos add a pleasant heat. Over and over, each item on Boston Deli’s menu exemplifies a classic dish that is creatively tweaked and expertly prepared.

From his illegal sidewalk grilling days to now, Schafer has watched the Tulsa restaurant scene grow up.

“Tulsa’s a great eating community,” he said. “Over the years, people’s palates have advanced and they are more educated on food. I think that our customers have realized that we are one of the best bangs for the buck you can get in Tulsa.”

Watching Schafer work the lively little dining room—greeting guests by name, asking about their families or their golf games—it becomes clear why his deli is successful. The same effort put into the food is also given to cultivating relationships with his guests. Too humble to admit it, Schafer feels that even after 25 years, luck has played a strong role.

“It’s kind of cool, the serendipity of how the restaurant business works. I definitely feel like we have someone watching over us. It’s really been a phenomenal ride.”

Boston Deli Grill & Market
6231 E. 61^st St., 918.492.4745, thebostondeli.com
Mon. 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Closed Sundays

For more from Angela, read her article on Vitter's Catering chef Josh Vitt.