Burlesque 101

A look at the performance art that has everything to do with fashion

“There’s something about a half-dead girl dancing that people really seem to enjoy,” said the founder of Tulsa burlesque troupe TwoLips Burlesk, the woman who portrays the persona Poppy Pie, told me over a cup of tea. No, she wasn’t talking about a burlesque show gone bad. It was zombie burlesque, one of the many themed routines Poppy has performed over the years.

How does one create an aesthetic that flirts with death? Some standards that would garner the Grim Reaper’s approval: a pale face, darker eyes, maybe a little artificial blood, and, in Poppy’s case, an old costume she distressed by tearing it and rubbing charcoal into the fabrics.

“Burlesque can be anything your mind wants it to be,” Poppy said. “Our creativity and our own skills are the only thing that’s going to limit us as artists.”

The word burlesque, of Italian origin, means a joke, ridicule, or mockery. It isn’t just about a strip tease; it’s also about the comedy, the commentary. It’s vaudeville. Burlesque reminds us, “let’s not take ourselves too terribly seriously,” Poppy said. With any theater or performance art, the visual aspect, especially costumes, plays a key role in the overall experience. In burlesque, they may end up on the floor, but the costumes matter.

There are three main categories of burlesque, as Poppy explained them: Classical, Neo, and Fetish. Classical Burlesque incorporates glamour and grace, with elaborate costumes and props. In Classical style, it’s typical to see beautiful ball gowns, rhinestones, and feathers. Layers of garments are vital; the routine is all about losing the layers, one at a time. Neo or “new” burlesque is focused on the tease. “A dancer could come out dressed as a monkey and it would be considered acceptable,” Poppy said. “Truly, anything goes with this particular style.” Fetish burlesque, by definition, is the more fantastical and decidedly darker of the three, incorporating power struggles and games of submission and dominance in the form of bondage and, sometimes, body suspension.

Whether Classical, Neo, or Fetish, none of these genres are mutually exclusive. Much like the real life they satirize, the styles often overlap. Creativity and self-expression and, ultimately, audience entertainment are king, regardless of the genre, Poppy said. “I want to be raw and emotional and to give my audience me. The costume is a vital part of that experience.”

How You Burlesque on a Budget

Ball Gowns and Cocktail Dresses. Affordable dresses can be found just about anywhere, but Poppy is partial to Name Brand Clothing and thrift stores. “You won’t think twice about cutting the sides and installing snaps,” she said. Many dancers have developed sewing skills and sometimes purchase old beaded gowns to repurpose the fabric, she said.

Thigh highs. “Thigh high stockings, held up by old-fashioned garters, are definitely making a comeback in all genres. They’re sexy and they’re practical. If you get a hole in a stocking, you only have to replace that one.” Her personal favorite is a good quality Cuban Heel stocking with the seam up the back. “Locally, Muse Intimates has beautiful thigh highs with the right amount of stretch. A stocking has got to have the right amount of stretch to do a good peel. Otherwise, the move looks awkward,” Poppy said. For the accompanying garter belts, she recommends Dillard’s.

Gloves. Gloves are to arms what stockings are to legs, Poppy said.

Corsettes. “Patricia’s has a lot of great corsettes (among other goodies) with good boning that aren’t going to break the bank,” Poppy said. 

Embellished Underthings. Ross, Burlington Coat Factory, and JC Penny are Poppy’s go-tos for basic bras and skivvies, which she embellishes herself with sequins, rhinestones, beads, feathers, and fringe.

Feather Boas. “The feather boa is so classic and lovely,” Poppy said. “Feathers are a kind of fetish. There’s something about the softness touching a girl’s skin that is universally enticing.”

Sensible Shoes. At least, sensible by dancer’s standards. A burlesque stage is no place for stripper heels, Poppy said. It isn’t sexy to wobble. Poppy recommends a ballroom-dance shoe because of the lower heel and support. “The wrong pair of shoes can kill your number,” Poppy said. “You have to be sure-footed to be sexy.”

Pasties. These stick-on patches that cover those lady parts above the belt always hiding behind black boxes on TV come in all shapes and sizes, from plain and clear to glittered and tasseled. Poppy, a pro, lights hers on fire on stage (but please, don’t try this at home).