Tour de Pho

It’s pronounced fuhh.

There’s a certain ceremony to eating a bowl of pho. It requires augmentation: a handful of bean sprouts, steamed jalapenos, a squeeze of lime, cilantro and basil. Combine that with the fragrant quality of the star anise and umami in the broth, and preparing pho becomes a sensory experience all its own. 

In an age when eating is so transactional (fast food, eating at your desk, grab ’n zap meals, pizza by the slice, et al) I like any food that requires me to stop and consider it before eating it. Pho does just that.

Traditional pho is comprised of broth, meat, and thin rice noodles. Its origins stem from 20th century Vietnam, where the soup was originally sold in street market carts in the villages of Vân Cù and Dao Cù. Broths made of marinated beef, bones, spices and oxtail give pho its signature belly-warming quality, and tender meats offer a hearty bulk. 

And while the idea of eating beef tripe (read: stomach) might make the squeamish shy away, for adventuresome diners, pho never disappoints. (Please note: you don’t have to eat tripe, there are many other options.) For those unfamiliar with the cuisine, it’s hard to know where to begin. Thankfully, Tulsa packs a fair number of authentic Vietnamese cafes, all perfect for testing the waters of the traditional delicacy.

Pho Da Cao
9066 E. 31st St.

When it comes to Pho Da Cao, all you need to know is “P7,” or pho doc biet. Flank steak, round beef, tendon, meatballs, tripe, and sliced onions give the soup depth and surprising notes of sweetness. The broth is mild, so use hoison sauce and Pho Da Cao’s homemade chili sauce to kick it up a notch. 

Noteworthy tidbits: Most of their broths are made with beef or chicken, so vegetarians should ask a server for animal-free suggestions.

Pho Nhi Vietnamese Noodle House
11514 E. 21st St.

Pho Nhi’s broth was my favorite, hands down. Theirs is loaded with meat and noodles—so much so that it’s hard to reach the bottom of the bowl. The Pho Dac Biet, or “The Special,” packs plenty of meat; use your chopsticks and soup spoon to wade through the mass of flank, brisket, tendon, and tripe that hovers around the top to hit the pile of noodles at the bottom. 

While the tendon was a bit chewy, the savory flank made up for it.  The spices take a backseat to the full, meaty flavors in the broth. You can also use the fish sauce on the table to adjust the flavor to your liking.

Noteworthy tidbits: The smallest size is plenty at Pho Nhi, especially if you order the summer rolls, which are near-bursting with pork and shrimp. Fans of Vietnamese coffee will want to give Pho Nhi’s a sip. Walk off your meal by browsing the stacks at Nam Hai, the Asian market Pho Nhi calls home. 

Pho 71
1001 N. Elm Pl., Broken Arrow

The pho here is solid—aromatic and generously portioned, with the noodles cooked just right. Try the pho with beef, pho dat biet, or the pho ga (made with chicken). Pho 71 also has plenty of other Vietnamese staples to explore. And with cheaper than cheap appetizers ($2.99 spring rolls, $1.99 egg rolls), you can eat like a high roller without spending like one. 

Noteworthy tidbits: While numerals in pho culture often denote lucky numbers, the “71” is merely a reference to the restaurant’s 71st and Elm location. Make the journey out to Broken Arrow when you have some time to kill. 

Viet Huong 7919 E. 21st St.

Viet Huong might not look like much from the outside, but pay no mind. Tulsans have been trekking to this local staple for years for authentic pho, noodle dishes, and Americanized Chinese food. The broth is spice-heavy and interesting, with lots of cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove upfront. 

For those new to pho, Viet Huong is a great place to start: a handy photo album shows you what to expect and makes it easy to choose something appetizing. I asked for a few recommendations and settled on the Hu Tieu Nam Vang— seafood pho with fried wontons. The “small” order is massive, and the fishy soup includes steamed squid, quail eggs, shrimp, and pork. Heat lovers can add jalapeños. 

Noteworthy tidbits: Viet Huong is cash-only. A spread for two will run around $20, but bring a little extra. The restaurant is small, and usually crowded (take it as a sign of quality). If you’re visiting with a large party, plan on splitting up.

Ri Le’s 4932 E. 91st St. 

This hidden gem in south Tulsa has been around for decades, offering great Vietnamese fare and gracious service in a no-frills atmosphere. You might not see pho on the menu, but it’s there, labeled simply “beef soup.” Theirs comes with accoutrements already added in, which might throw off some die-hard pho fans. Note: their small is a true small, and will leave you with plenty of room to try other specialties, like the lumpia dogs or the bun cha gio salad bowl, made with noodles, veggies, and fried spring rolls. For a Vietnamese appetizer that breaks the mold, grab the lumpia dogs. 

Noteworthy tidbits: Ri Le’s has ties to Binh Le, another Vietnamese gem at 31st and Sheridan in midtown. If you can’t make it out south, stop by Binh Le for similar fare. 

For more from Megan, read her article on Crunch Nacho Ninjas and Pearl's Food Truck Park owner, Josh Lynch.