Place setting

Tulsa has a growing offering of Vietnam’s most popular to-go dish

The intersection of Northwest 23rd and Classen Boulevard in Oklahoma City is the meeting place of two cultures. After the fall of Saigon in 1975, Oklahoma became home to thousands of Vietnamese refugees who would become an integral part of developing the Asian District in the heart of our state’s capitol.

My first taste of pho, or Vietnamese beef noodle soup, was in a small restaurant in this district back in the nineties. It was a first date, and the boy was out to impress me with his worldly nature. I did find love that day, but it was with the humble bowl of rice noodles and aromatic broth that led to a life-long affinity for soup.

Years later and a hundred miles away I found a non-descript Vietnamese restaurant buried in the hills of south Tulsa. We have a vibrant Asian District here, but unlike Oklahoma City, it’s not in the center of town but rather further east. Pho V-Nam & Vietnamese Sandwich winks out from a strip mall at 81st and Harvard and is open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner. For a working single mother with an affinity for ethnic flavors but not finding much in her southside neighborhood, finding this place felt like winning the lottery.

It’s a small eatery with an open kitchen and all guests are greeted promptly by the owners. Tien Lam and Phan Rich are husband and wife, cook and waiter, owners and greeters. They came to Tulsa from Houston so that Lam could attend Oral Roberts University. His dedication to the ministry is what brought pho to my neck of the woods. Lam is fervent about authentic, healthful Vietnamese fare. “I try to cook healthy and keep everything traditional, the way food is supposed to be,” Lam said.

Recently, my children and I shared several items from the concise menu (“It’s not too large because there are only two of us cooking,” said Lam). We had a Vietnamese sandwich, or banh mi, with shredded chicken, and two types of pho. To start, we ordered Lam’s specialty: traditionally prepared egg rolls wrapped in rice paper. Between the warm, crispy egg roll and the cold, sticky rice paper, there was a layer of freshly shredded carrots and chopped lettuce. The contrast in temperature and texture was executed perfectly and made a simple, familiar appetizer seem like more. The rolls are served with a tangy-and-sweet fish sauce, which my children ate with a spoon. Lam placed accoutrements on the table in preparation for the arrival of our dinner: plates of lime wedges, sliced jalapeños, cilantro, basil, and fresh bean sprouts. It’s what is to be expected in this part of the country for embellishing pho; it’s regional and readily available.

Herbal, sweet fragrances wafting from the line made for an arduous interval between ordering and delivery. As the steaming bowls of pho rounded the corner and made way to the dinner table, I had a distinct sensation of anticipation for one of the most comforting of foods. It’s a feeling marked by an ache in my gut and sweaty palms, a sure sign of love.

The broth is what makes pho magical. It’s almost irresistible, even on the hottest of days or the oddest hours. “Pho is served in the street at home, but it was originally served for breakfast only,” Lam said. The combination of undisclosed spices simmered for hours with beef bones, charred onion and ginger, the exact method for which was closely guarded by the Vietnamese chef, as if he had the map that would lead straight to my heart.

ALLISONS DISHES

NEW TRUCK IN TOWN // Stella Reauxs, a food truck that’s the result of a partnership of chefs Tiffanie Reynolds and Tim Heitzman, offers an unusual menu with flavors from Mexico, Louisiana, and the Far East. I sampled their breakfast menu the truck’s first day out and am eager to go back for lunch. Find the truck on Facebook to see where it’s parked; Stella Reauxs is available for catering, too. More at stellareauxs.com.

NEW TO THE PEARL // On the south side of Sixth St. between Quaker and Quincy, Paul Wilson is creating a Mediterranean masterpiece called Papa Ganouj. The restaurant will be full service and will seat about 70; it’s scheduled to open this summer. I got a sneak peak of the space, which is eclectic in décor and comfortable in atmosphere.

TESTING 1, 2, 3 // Jenny Vergera, Kansas City foodie and founder of The Test Kitchen, will be in Tulsa in June 6th for a Test Kitchen dinner with Wilson. These dinners are incredible and I highly recommend this epicurean adventure. Vergera has a knack for scouting out the newest, freshest local talent and helping them find their way along their culinary path. If you don’t know about her private supper club, read about it here: www.testkitchenkc.com.

GO SOUTH // There are oodles of choices for dining out south. Yokozuna on Yale, McNellies South, Upper Crust, and Russo’s are all now open and in full swing on the city’s south side, often with a wait for a table. Sources tell me that a second El Guapo will open soon at 81st and Harvard. This foodie hopes this rumor is accurate. I’m thrilled to see how their famous Hibiscus Margaritas taste south of I-44.